By Rifan Muazin 
In June 2025, an exclusive assembly of horological insiders, high-stakes collectors, and global press gathered in Los Angeles for an event that signaled a seismic shift in the luxury landscape: the formal relaunch of Urban Jürgensen. For decades, the name Urban Jürgensen was a secret whispered only among the most dedicated "watch nerds"—connoisseurs who prioritized historical pedigree and hand-finished movements over mass-market brand recognition. However, under new leadership and a revitalized creative vision, the brand has stepped out of the shadows of the workshop and into the center of the cultural zeitgeist.
The story of Urban Jürgensen is one of profound historical gravity. Founded 250 years ago in Copenhagen, the maison’s namesake was a Danish watchmaker of unparalleled genius. Born into a family of horologists, Urban Jürgensen traveled across Europe to refine his craft, studying under the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet in Paris and John Arnold in London. By the age of 28, Jürgensen had published a definitive treatise on timekeeping that remains a foundational text for watchmakers today. His contributions were not merely theoretical; he was a vital supplier of marine chronometers to the Royal Danish Navy, instruments where precision was a matter of national security and maritime survival. His academic and technical prowess eventually led him to become the first tradesman ever invited to join the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences, a testament to his status as a scientist of time.
After centuries of passing through various hands—including a period of stewardship by the late, great watchmaker Derek Pratt—the brand entered a new era in 2021 when it was acquired by the Rosenfield family. In a move that sent shockwaves through the industry, they appointed the Finnish master Kari Voutilainen as co-CEO. Voutilainen is widely regarded as one of the greatest living watchmakers, known for his obsessive attention to dial work and movement finishing. Under his guidance, the brand debuted a trio of models that bridge the gap between 18th-century tradition and 21st-century luxury: the UJ-1, the UJ-2, and the UJ-3.
The UJ-1 250th Anniversary watch serves as a modern homage to the famous "Oval Pocket Watch" created by Derek Pratt, Voutilainen’s mentor. The UJ-3 offers a perpetual calendar with an instantaneous moon phase, a complication that demands extreme mechanical efficiency. However, it is the UJ-2 that has captured the imagination of the public, thanks in no small part to its most visible advocate: Timothée Chalamet.
Chalamet, a style icon whose choices are scrutinized by millions, has been seen wearing the UJ-2 on several high-profile occasions, including the Oscars Nominees Luncheon at The Beverly Hilton this week. He previously debuted the watch at the New York premiere of Marty Supreme in October and again at the Los Angeles premiere in December. The UJ-2 is a 39mm masterpiece cased in platinum, featuring a movement architecture that utilizes a double-wheel natural escapement. This specific escapement, originally pioneered by Breguet, is a "holy grail" of horology because it delivers impulses directly to the balance wheel without the need for lubrication, significantly reducing friction. While the watch appears to be a minimalist dress watch displaying only the time and a small power reserve, its MSRP of 105,000 Swiss Francs (approximately $137,000) reflects the hundreds of hours of manual labor required to achieve its superlative level of finishing.
The rise of Urban Jürgensen reflects a broader trend in the 2020s: the "indie" watch boom. High-end independent brands like F.P. Journe and the revitalized Daniel Roth are now viewed with the same reverence as bespoke tailoring from Huntsman & Sons or high-fashion staples from The Row. Collectors are moving away from "hype" watches produced by massive conglomerates, seeking instead the soul and story found in smaller, artisan-led marques.
This shift toward specialized, high-performance horology is also evident in the sports world. During the Super Bowl LX parade in Seattle this week, Seahawks defensive end DeMarcus Lawrence was spotted wearing the Norqain Wild ONE Skeleton 42mm Gecko. Norqain, a relatively young brand that has quickly gained traction among elite athletes, represents the cutting edge of material science. The Wild ONE is constructed from NORTEQ, a proprietary carbon fiber composite developed in collaboration with industry legend Jean-Claude Biver. This material is 3.5 times lighter than titanium and incredibly shock-resistant, making it a logical choice for a professional athlete. Norqain’s recent appointment as the official watch of the NHL further cements its status as the go-to brand for those who require durability without sacrificing mechanical complexity. The skeletonized dial of the Gecko edition allows for a full view of the automatic Norqain Caliber N08S, showcasing a different kind of "watchmaking nerdery"—one focused on resilience and modern aesthetics.
Meanwhile, the world of global pop culture continues to be a primary driver for the industry’s heavyweights. BTS star Jung Kook recently made his debut as the newest global brand ambassador for Hublot, appearing with the Big Bang Original Unico King Gold Ceramic. Hublot has long been defined by its "Art of Fusion" philosophy, and this 43mm timepiece is a textbook example. It utilizes "King Gold," a proprietary alloy that mixes gold with copper and platinum to create a redder hue that is more resistant to oxidation than standard 18k gold. Paired with a polished ceramic bezel and the in-house Unico flyback chronograph movement, the watch is a statement of maximalist luxury. Jung Kook’s association with the brand signals Hublot’s continued dominance in the intersection of high fashion, music, and horology, proving that there is still a massive appetite for bold, oversized, and technologically advanced timepieces.
In contrast to the bold proportions of Hublot, a significant trend toward miniaturization and gender-fluid styling is taking hold, led by Cartier. At the same Oscars Nominees Luncheon where Chalamet wore his Urban Jürgensen, actress Elle Fanning was seen sporting the Cartier Tank Louis Mini. Fanning, a global ambassador for the maison, chose a version of the iconic rectangular watch that measures a mere 16.5mm. While this specific model is powered by a quartz movement rather than a mechanical one, its appeal lies in its silhouette and historical weight. The Tank was originally designed by Louis Cartier in 1917, inspired by the top-down view of Renault tanks on the Western Front. Today, it has become a symbol of timeless elegance that transcends gender. Cartier ambassador Paul Mescal has also been seen wearing the Tank Mini on red carpets, highlighting a shift where men are increasingly embracing smaller, jewelry-like timepieces. The aesthetic—gold, rectangular, with a silver-white dial and blue sword hands—remains one of the most recognizable and coveted designs in the world.
Finally, the Super Bowl LX festivities provided a platform for Breitling, a brand that has successfully navigated the balance between heritage and modern "cool" under the leadership of CEO Georges Kern. Actor Jon Hamm was spotted at the Apple Music Halftime Show Celebration wearing a Breitling Chronomat B01 42. The Chronomat has a storied history, originally launched in the 1940s as a pilot’s watch and later revived in the 1980s as a symbol of mechanical revival during the "Quartz Crisis." The modern B01 42 version worn by Hamm features the distinctive "Rouleaux" integrated bracelet and the signature "rider tabs" on the bezel, which protect the sapphire crystal. It is a rugged, versatile chronograph powered by an in-house COSC-certified movement, designed for the "everyday" luxury consumer who appreciates a watch that can transition from a formal event to "dad dancing" on the sidelines of a stadium.
The current landscape of horology is more diverse than ever. From the 18th-century technical mastery revived by Kari Voutilainen at Urban Jürgensen to the carbon-fiber innovations of Norqain and the genderless elegance of Cartier’s miniatures, the "watch world" has expanded far beyond its traditional borders. As celebrities like Timothée Chalamet and Jung Kook continue to use their wrists to tell stories of craftsmanship and personal style, the future of the industry looks increasingly bright. Whether it is a $130,000 platinum piece with a revolutionary escapement or a quartz-powered icon of design, the watch has moved beyond its function as a time-telling tool to become the ultimate symbol of the sartorial zeitgeist.