By Rifan Muazin 
The designer Julian Louie clearly remembers the first shiny dress shirt he ever saw: an iridescent purple number worn by director Todd Haynes during the press tour for his 1998 film Velvet Goldmine. It was a fitting choice for a film that served as a love letter to 1970s glam rock, an era defined by its refusal to blend into the background. Louie came across that image of Haynes in the early 2000s, and something about the shirt’s unapologetic luster stuck with him. That rakish, slightly decadent approach to menswear became the spiritual cornerstone for Aubero, the label Louie launched in 2022. Fast forward to earlier this year, and the aesthetic came full circle on the red carpet when Pedro Pascal appeared in a shiny Aubero shirt that rivaled the juicy, luminously green interior of a freshly cut lime. The look was electric, polarizing, and undeniably modern, signaling a decisive shift in the way the world’s most photographed men are choosing to present themselves.
Pascal is far from the only movie star embracing a little sheen these days. We are witnessing a collective departure from the "stealth wealth" and "quiet luxury" trends that have dominated the menswear zeitgeist for the better part of a decade. In their place is a new appetite for high-viscosity fabrics and light-catching textures. Riz Ahmed, known for his thoughtful and often experimental style, delivered a one-two punch on the recent press tour for the film Digger. During the circuit, Ahmed sported both a black silk habotai shirt by Lemaire and a silk chartreuse tee layered under a sharp gray Saint Laurent suit. The effect was subtle but transformative; the silk added a layer of depth and sophistication that a standard cotton poplin simply could not provide.
Last month, at the Toronto International Film Festival, actor and professional skateboarder Nico Hiraga took the trend into more daring territory. He arrived in a supremely shiny mauve shirt, worn unbuttoned to his sternum, channeling a retro-Californian cool that felt both effortless and high-fashion. Similarly, Connor Storrie, the star of Heated Rivalry and a Saint Laurent brand ambassador, has made a habit of wearing the label’s signature silky shirts, often paired with razor-thin tailoring that emphasizes a lean, rock-and-roll silhouette. Meanwhile, Resident Evil star Austin Abrams took the concept to its logical conclusion, opting for a full, shiny two-piece suit from Maison Valentino. Hollywood’s leading men, it seems, are looking a whole lot glossier, trading in the matte finishes of the past for something that reflects the flashbulbs of the paparazzi.
Anyone old enough to remember the early 2000s knows this isn’t the first time shiny shirts have had a moment in the spotlight. For many, the look is inextricably linked to the peak of Y2K fashion. Think of Brad Pitt’s wardrobe as Rusty Ryan in the Ocean’s franchise, a character whose wardrobe consisted almost entirely of iridescent suits and shimmering button-downs that mirrored the actor’s own red-carpet choices at the time. Pitt’s affinity for the look has proven remarkably durable; he has been spotted in similar high-shine ensembles as recently as 2025. Then there were the "bros" of Entourage, whose fondness for shiny “going-out shirts” became a cultural shorthand for a specific kind of early-aughts bravado. The glossy dress shirt has a documented history of appearing both impossibly cool and slightly ridiculous, often at the same time. As other Y2K styles—from baggy denim to technical outerwear—surge back into the mainstream, it is perhaps inevitable that the shiny button-up has come around again. However, fashion experts warn that the look requires a deft hand. A few wrong turns in styling, and one risks veering back into the territory of bedazzled jeans and gelled faux hawks.
The current resurgence is being fueled by a new generation of creative directors who are reimagining what "formal" looks like. Sophie Jordan, the menswear buying director at the luxury retailer Mytheresa, points to the spring 2026 collections as a major turning point for the industry. Specifically, she cites Gucci’s first collection under the direction of Demna as a catalyst. “Gucci’s first collection under Demna showcased this shiny evening shirt in a sexy way but still maintained a strong edge of masculinity,” Jordan says. She also notes that Haider Ackermann’s tenure at Tom Ford—a brand that has always been the primary proprietor of sexy, nightlife-ready clothes—offered printed silk shirts that same season which were an immediate hit with Mytheresa’s high-end shoppers. Since then, designers across the board have leaned into the trend, ensuring that the "glossy" look is no longer a niche preference but a retail powerhouse.
Jordan places the shiny shirt within a broader, burgeoning category she calls the “evening shirt.” This category encompasses a variety of expressive fabrics, including silk, sequins, velvet, and even sheer materials. The appeal, she explains, isn’t necessarily to dress like the "Roxbury Guys" of Saturday Night Live fame, but rather to tap into menswear’s more sensual, tactile currents. “This style of shirt plays into that without being too over the top. Fundamentally, the shape and silhouette is very classic,” Jordan notes. “When styled with a pair of tailored pants, it’s very easy to wear and adds an evening feel to the styling without being overdone.” This suggests that for the average consumer, a little shine is a relatively low-lift way to make a significant impression at a wedding, a gala, or a high-end dinner.
From a design perspective, the movement is about more than just aesthetics; it is about the subversion of traditional gender norms through fabric. “I like the pairing of a very expressive material used on a super straightforward silhouette,” says Julian Louie of Aubero. For some of his label’s earliest and most celebrated designs, Louie deconstructed mid-century silk taffeta cocktail dresses and repurposed the fabric into men’s board shorts. “It was about taking a material that has always been associated with a more feminine couture sensibility and applying it to a men’s wardrobe in an unexpected way,” he explains. This blurring of lines is a hallmark of modern menswear, where the rigidity of "the suit" is being softened by materials that were once reserved for the world of haute couture.
Despite its current "trend" status, the shiny dress shirt never truly disappeared from the fashion landscape. It has remained a perennial fixture on the runways of heritage labels like Dolce & Gabbana and Tom Ford, brands that have built empires on the concept of unapologetic Italian and American glamour. Dries Van Noten, the Belgian master of color and print, has frequently elevated the garment into something approaching high art, using intricate patterns and unique weaves to create shirts that shimmer with an intellectual depth. Similarly, the cult Swedish brand Our Legacy has consistently produced "weird" shirting—using crushed silks and reactive dyes—that has long wooed the most adventurous dressers in the menswear community.
What has changed in the current moment, however, is the sheer number of men willing to give the look a shot. The barriers to entry have been lowered by the evolution of tailoring. Shiny dress shirts slide effortlessly into today’s preferred silhouettes, whether that be the slouchy, oversized tailoring of the "new minimalist" movement or the sexier, retro-infused designs seen in Anthony Vaccarello’s final work at Saint Laurent. The French breakout label Husbands has also played a role, reviving the 1970s Parisian "le smoking" aesthetic for a new generation of men who want to look like they belong in a smoky jazz club or a high-stakes casino.
For those who are curious about the trend but afraid of veering too close to "lounge lizard" territory, the industry is offering plenty of "halfway steps." Many labels, including the Japanese brand Auralee and the aforementioned Tom Ford, now offer dress shirts in cotton-silk blends. these fabrics feature more matte cotton than reflective silk, resulting in a finish that catches the light in a subtle, sophisticated way without going "full disco ball." Sophie Jordan suggests that for those new to the look, it is a smart idea to build up to it gradually. “A little texture and a little sheen will go a long way for guys who don’t typically spend their evenings walking red carpets,” she says. By pairing a subtle silk-blend shirt with a matte wool suit, a man can achieve a look that is elevated and interesting without feeling like he is wearing a costume.
Ultimately, the return of the shiny shirt serves as a cultural palate cleanser. In recent years, the stronghold of "quiet luxury" and tasteful, muted neutrals has been so enduring that it became easy to forget that clothing is allowed to be fun, expressive, and even a bit ridiculous. The resurgence of high-gloss menswear suggests that we are entering a more theatrical era of dress, one where the goal is no longer to hide one’s wealth or status in a sea of beige cashmere, but to celebrate the joy of dressing up. As Julian Louie puts it, the shift is a sign of a healthier, more creative fashion cycle: “Maybe this means we’ve moved on from a moment of banal clothing.” Whether it’s a lime green Aubero shirt on Pedro Pascal or a mauve silk number on Nico Hiraga, the message is clear: the future of menswear is bright, bold, and brilliantly reflective.
